11-09-2017, 08:26 AM
OK...
Now it makes sense to me...
When i READ "pull all the slack out of the cable" in my head i assumed that meant to pull the cable all the way out (throttle valve fully open)
I now understand. Pull the slack so that there is no slack between the TV Cam Return Spring on the upper valve body, to the TV Cable.
I found this which is a better way of explaining it:
"Adjustment of Cable. [Abe Crombie/Dave Stevens] First make sure the cable is properly sitting in its groove in the throttle spindle. When properly adjusted, the cable clamp should be 2" from the cable end when the thottle is wide open and 1/32"-1/16" (1 mm) from the cable end when the throttle is closed, i.e. almost touching the rubber end cap. If someone has been playing with throttle body adjustments (throttle stop screw or linkage rod length) then the throttle spindle rest position may have changed and may be affecting kickdown cable adjustment.
The kickdown cable has no adjustment at the transmission end, it's fixed. All the adjustment is done under the hood at the throttle spindle. To adjust, loosen the 13mm cable housing jam nuts until there's plenty of slack in the cable. Apply some antiseize so the task is easier both now and in the future. Make sure you count the number of flats on the nuts so you can return to the original position if needed. Pluck the cable by lifting the open section, then let it snap back in. Listen carefully, and you'll hear the cam that the cable is attached to in the automatic transmission click up against its stop. You'll need a quiet environment for this to work. Try this a few times, so you'll know the sound. Now adjust slack out of the cable, keep testing by pulling and letting go of the cable, always listening for the click inside the transmission. As you take more and more slack out, there will be a point where you've tightened the cable just enough so the cam inside the transmission can no longer click up against the stop, because the tightened cable won't let the cam go back far enough. When you reach this point where you just stop hearing the cam click against its stop, the cable is adjusted properly. [Dave Stevens] When properly adjusted, you should not hear the pawl go thunk against its stop; the proper adjustment is just past the point where it faintly did go thunk. You can adjust this a little tighter or looser if desired, say by a few adjuster nut faces, to achieve slightly more aggressive or slightly smoother shifting."
Now it makes sense to me...
When i READ "pull all the slack out of the cable" in my head i assumed that meant to pull the cable all the way out (throttle valve fully open)
I now understand. Pull the slack so that there is no slack between the TV Cam Return Spring on the upper valve body, to the TV Cable.
I found this which is a better way of explaining it:
"Adjustment of Cable. [Abe Crombie/Dave Stevens] First make sure the cable is properly sitting in its groove in the throttle spindle. When properly adjusted, the cable clamp should be 2" from the cable end when the thottle is wide open and 1/32"-1/16" (1 mm) from the cable end when the throttle is closed, i.e. almost touching the rubber end cap. If someone has been playing with throttle body adjustments (throttle stop screw or linkage rod length) then the throttle spindle rest position may have changed and may be affecting kickdown cable adjustment.
The kickdown cable has no adjustment at the transmission end, it's fixed. All the adjustment is done under the hood at the throttle spindle. To adjust, loosen the 13mm cable housing jam nuts until there's plenty of slack in the cable. Apply some antiseize so the task is easier both now and in the future. Make sure you count the number of flats on the nuts so you can return to the original position if needed. Pluck the cable by lifting the open section, then let it snap back in. Listen carefully, and you'll hear the cam that the cable is attached to in the automatic transmission click up against its stop. You'll need a quiet environment for this to work. Try this a few times, so you'll know the sound. Now adjust slack out of the cable, keep testing by pulling and letting go of the cable, always listening for the click inside the transmission. As you take more and more slack out, there will be a point where you've tightened the cable just enough so the cam inside the transmission can no longer click up against the stop, because the tightened cable won't let the cam go back far enough. When you reach this point where you just stop hearing the cam click against its stop, the cable is adjusted properly. [Dave Stevens] When properly adjusted, you should not hear the pawl go thunk against its stop; the proper adjustment is just past the point where it faintly did go thunk. You can adjust this a little tighter or looser if desired, say by a few adjuster nut faces, to achieve slightly more aggressive or slightly smoother shifting."