04-28-2017, 11:23 PM
The dreaded stalling and rough running is back. I took it out of storage a week ago today, drove about 200 miles of highway/city/light-offroad with 0 issues. For example, I got stuck in some snow last sunday and It was idling for a good 2 hours PERFECTLY while I shoveled it out.
The new issues randomly appeared yesterday. It all started when the transmission was hanging in 1st and 2nd(mostly). I immediately stopped into an auto parts stop and checked my trans fluid, which was a little low (this was from when I replaced the TCC solenoid). One quart brought it up to level, might need another ounce or two. Anyway, after I got home and it had cooled down I went to start it (2 hours later). It started and stumbled, had to start it again. I must also mention it is very humid and foggy today and yesterday. At this point it started roughly. It runs GREAT on the highway. It pulls like a train and can cruise at 75mph all day long.
So what the hell is wrong with this thing!?!?!? Also, I have a p0400 code that comes after about 2 runs on the highway. Catalyst monitor won't complete. p0400 seems to fail the test that doesn't involve stopping. It illuminates when coasting down a hill on the highway. I have a good CDN ECU from a 1997 sidekick. Can I use this to cheat on my p0400 light? haha :p
I'm a little confused about what "removing the egr means" when you stick a golf tee in. where exactly does it go? I'm hoping it's egr related. http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/EGR/96-EGR-map.jpg [b](what number?)[/b]
Anyway, could a egr code even cause my tracker to shudder and stall at low speeds. Just this morning it shut off and I had to restart twice while backing into a parking space at work. Sometimes the RPMS drop so low that the check engine light and oil light come on as if the key is just in the on position and it catches itself again.
So here is what I have done in about march while it was still in storage:
-Spark plugs (gapped to .028")
-PCV valve
-Air filter
-Dist Cap
-Dist rotor
-Repaired exhaust manifold crack (done properly. drilled, preheated, nickle rods, cooldown, also put exhaust putty over weld)
-Upstream o2 sensor
-cleaned the Idle air control valve.
-swapped in the IACV, TPS (whole throttle plate actually, didn't want to mess up TPS) from good working vehicle (The ones that came off mine also worked well on the donor vehicle)
Also did a compression test (#'d from front to back)
- 1=190psi
- 2=180psi
- 3=180psi
- 4=185psi
Since then I have also:
- 8120 NGK blue ignition wires as per your suggestion
- wix fuel filter
- replaced TCC solenoid and o-rings after testing the electrical (It locks up everytime at 47 now
YAY)
- cleaned all vacuum lines are ports related to EGR/modulator. Including the bend behind the freeze plug. How clean do these have to be by the way. It's not perfect but I can stick a brush through.
The new issues randomly appeared yesterday. It all started when the transmission was hanging in 1st and 2nd(mostly). I immediately stopped into an auto parts stop and checked my trans fluid, which was a little low (this was from when I replaced the TCC solenoid). One quart brought it up to level, might need another ounce or two. Anyway, after I got home and it had cooled down I went to start it (2 hours later). It started and stumbled, had to start it again. I must also mention it is very humid and foggy today and yesterday. At this point it started roughly. It runs GREAT on the highway. It pulls like a train and can cruise at 75mph all day long.
So what the hell is wrong with this thing!?!?!? Also, I have a p0400 code that comes after about 2 runs on the highway. Catalyst monitor won't complete. p0400 seems to fail the test that doesn't involve stopping. It illuminates when coasting down a hill on the highway. I have a good CDN ECU from a 1997 sidekick. Can I use this to cheat on my p0400 light? haha :p
I'm a little confused about what "removing the egr means" when you stick a golf tee in. where exactly does it go? I'm hoping it's egr related. http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/EGR/96-EGR-map.jpg [b](what number?)[/b]
Anyway, could a egr code even cause my tracker to shudder and stall at low speeds. Just this morning it shut off and I had to restart twice while backing into a parking space at work. Sometimes the RPMS drop so low that the check engine light and oil light come on as if the key is just in the on position and it catches itself again.
So here is what I have done in about march while it was still in storage:
-Spark plugs (gapped to .028")
-PCV valve
-Air filter
-Dist Cap
-Dist rotor
-Repaired exhaust manifold crack (done properly. drilled, preheated, nickle rods, cooldown, also put exhaust putty over weld)
-Upstream o2 sensor
-cleaned the Idle air control valve.
-swapped in the IACV, TPS (whole throttle plate actually, didn't want to mess up TPS) from good working vehicle (The ones that came off mine also worked well on the donor vehicle)
Also did a compression test (#'d from front to back)
- 1=190psi
- 2=180psi
- 3=180psi
- 4=185psi
Since then I have also:
- 8120 NGK blue ignition wires as per your suggestion
- wix fuel filter
- replaced TCC solenoid and o-rings after testing the electrical (It locks up everytime at 47 now
YAY)- cleaned all vacuum lines are ports related to EGR/modulator. Including the bend behind the freeze plug. How clean do these have to be by the way. It's not perfect but I can stick a brush through.