10-27-2017, 12:22 AM
is car in USA? if yes harbor-freight has a $20 fuel pressure guage with the suzuki 6mm hose there? that fits all suzuki stock filter banjo fittings. my guess stock filter is gone, and so are the stock banjo's" I cant see your car nor see mods done wrong, or any of that, many parts on this car are super hard to get now...... or very expensive from SUZ
1. Yes Car is in the US Illinois to be specific.
i re-read all your posts.
so the coil wire was hacked. (i see that splice there and is never good to allow that ever)
the injector wires hacked ?
2. That is correct a there was a hack wire that was going from the coil wire to one of the 2 injector wires, without the hack wire in place the injector would not fire at all. That was a special project from whoever had it before me.
and the ECU replaced right?
3. The ECU was sent in and repaired. It was said that there was a burnt out injector circuit and that was reapaired all else appeared good in ECU. That was done and put back in couple weeks ago. I also ran 2 new wires from out of the ECU to the injector harness like you suggested. Did not seem to help. BUT it did allow the car to run and fuel without the HACK wire. So in my mind progress but still not fixed.
back near post 30 ish, you showed fuel pressure ALL WRONG. 18psi is ALL WRONG. as is 20. !!! IF IT IS , ? then this car will bog like HELL.
when did you fix the fuel pressure.?????? I can't find that anywhere. nor how done , exactly....
4.I did use a fuel pressure gauge kit I borrowed from Orileys and found that fuel pressure was low like you thought. I then replaced the fuel pump in the tank and 70% of the metal fuel lines from tank to throttle body with new soft fuel line hose. This seemed to make a big change in the car but still was not 100% correct (this was before I got ECU Fixed and hack wire was still in place). With new fuel pump in place it was reading good fuel pressure. After driving in like that for a month or two it got real bad one day we were idling around field edges in first gear for hour or so and since then it has been really bad.
it takes 2 things to get good pressure, (not counting clogged socks or filters wrong pump or bent pump output side lines and the like.
a good pump that can do 60psi shunt test, (output blocked) at FPR return line, this test in in the suzuki book and on my pump page. Did you do a pump shunt test?
5.I have not done a pump shunt test I will perform this test.
then a working FPR, most this old are dead, and leak. to the return line, so easy to prove. ask./
so if the FPR works you get your 31 to 40 PSI is spec. as sealevel, are you at sealevel
6.Yes I am roughly at sea level
the pressure does not change at wot, like all 16v MPI engines do.
the pressure fuel only change for altitude.
same pressure key on
same pressure, running at any speed.
what is your idle pressure? at idle, and gunned for 1 to 3 seconds WOT.
do you have fuel pressure gauge, does it fit to the filter test port.?
7. I do not have test port. Everything was very rusty and had to replace filter with inline style and different hoses. I can you the T like you suggest in the next post. That is the style of hose and clamps that I am using. Is not leaking.
as it must,. there is no under hood test point on any 8v. so... deleting the rear one will make diagnoses, impossible.
do not use carb fuel lines or carb clamps only 100PSI rated fuel system parts, are to be uses, EFI rated. or you will get a leak.
here is your system, this is first, as the ECU is wholefully unable to cure bad pressure, nor know its wrong, ever. it must be right.
http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/TBI-map.JPG
when you remove the vacuum line from the FPR,does the nipple there leak fuel, is yes the FPR is bad.
8. I have not checked to see if it is leaking fuel here. I will check that. Last I messed with that it did not appear to be.
ps. idle surge is a other issues. might be above and idle speeds we fix last when engine runs correctly. (power full , no misfiring)
9.We will address this once we have other issue figure out. Thanks
if the ECU can not control idle , IT surges the ISC valve( super dangerous today, ask toyota the cost of the error, recalls,etc)
you need to meaure the pressure correctly
or buy a new FPR and pray,
but in the end, if the pump fails the shunt test its no good or wrong pump.
i cant see what you did, but my guess,
put the TEE fitting, in place of the filter., then the gage attached,
34psi min. (41 is par, at sea level and 34 , up on pikes peak) (the higher the altitude the lower is fuel pressure, or the injector flows to much fuel)
if the pressure is 50 to 60 the FPR is jammed, (bad) or return line blocked,pinched or clogged.
if the pressure is way low(it was) then the FPR is bad(stuck open bad) or the pump is no good.
if the shunt test fails,(with return line pinched) then the pump is NO GOOD. (wrong pump , bad, or its sock clogged, or hose inside near it is cracked and leaking inside tank unseen.
that covers them all i think.
10.I will check fuel pressure out and do the shunt test and see what kind of pressure I get. Thanks again for the help. Will report back later.
1. Yes Car is in the US Illinois to be specific.
i re-read all your posts.
so the coil wire was hacked. (i see that splice there and is never good to allow that ever)
the injector wires hacked ?
2. That is correct a there was a hack wire that was going from the coil wire to one of the 2 injector wires, without the hack wire in place the injector would not fire at all. That was a special project from whoever had it before me.
and the ECU replaced right?
3. The ECU was sent in and repaired. It was said that there was a burnt out injector circuit and that was reapaired all else appeared good in ECU. That was done and put back in couple weeks ago. I also ran 2 new wires from out of the ECU to the injector harness like you suggested. Did not seem to help. BUT it did allow the car to run and fuel without the HACK wire. So in my mind progress but still not fixed.
back near post 30 ish, you showed fuel pressure ALL WRONG. 18psi is ALL WRONG. as is 20. !!! IF IT IS , ? then this car will bog like HELL.
when did you fix the fuel pressure.?????? I can't find that anywhere. nor how done , exactly....
4.I did use a fuel pressure gauge kit I borrowed from Orileys and found that fuel pressure was low like you thought. I then replaced the fuel pump in the tank and 70% of the metal fuel lines from tank to throttle body with new soft fuel line hose. This seemed to make a big change in the car but still was not 100% correct (this was before I got ECU Fixed and hack wire was still in place). With new fuel pump in place it was reading good fuel pressure. After driving in like that for a month or two it got real bad one day we were idling around field edges in first gear for hour or so and since then it has been really bad.
it takes 2 things to get good pressure, (not counting clogged socks or filters wrong pump or bent pump output side lines and the like.
a good pump that can do 60psi shunt test, (output blocked) at FPR return line, this test in in the suzuki book and on my pump page. Did you do a pump shunt test?
5.I have not done a pump shunt test I will perform this test.
then a working FPR, most this old are dead, and leak. to the return line, so easy to prove. ask./
so if the FPR works you get your 31 to 40 PSI is spec. as sealevel, are you at sealevel
6.Yes I am roughly at sea level
the pressure does not change at wot, like all 16v MPI engines do.
the pressure fuel only change for altitude.
same pressure key on
same pressure, running at any speed.
what is your idle pressure? at idle, and gunned for 1 to 3 seconds WOT.
do you have fuel pressure gauge, does it fit to the filter test port.?
7. I do not have test port. Everything was very rusty and had to replace filter with inline style and different hoses. I can you the T like you suggest in the next post. That is the style of hose and clamps that I am using. Is not leaking.
as it must,. there is no under hood test point on any 8v. so... deleting the rear one will make diagnoses, impossible.
do not use carb fuel lines or carb clamps only 100PSI rated fuel system parts, are to be uses, EFI rated. or you will get a leak.
here is your system, this is first, as the ECU is wholefully unable to cure bad pressure, nor know its wrong, ever. it must be right.
http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/TBI-map.JPG
when you remove the vacuum line from the FPR,does the nipple there leak fuel, is yes the FPR is bad.
8. I have not checked to see if it is leaking fuel here. I will check that. Last I messed with that it did not appear to be.
ps. idle surge is a other issues. might be above and idle speeds we fix last when engine runs correctly. (power full , no misfiring)
9.We will address this once we have other issue figure out. Thanks
if the ECU can not control idle , IT surges the ISC valve( super dangerous today, ask toyota the cost of the error, recalls,etc)
you need to meaure the pressure correctly
or buy a new FPR and pray,
but in the end, if the pump fails the shunt test its no good or wrong pump.
i cant see what you did, but my guess,
put the TEE fitting, in place of the filter., then the gage attached,
34psi min. (41 is par, at sea level and 34 , up on pikes peak) (the higher the altitude the lower is fuel pressure, or the injector flows to much fuel)
if the pressure is 50 to 60 the FPR is jammed, (bad) or return line blocked,pinched or clogged.
if the pressure is way low(it was) then the FPR is bad(stuck open bad) or the pump is no good.
if the shunt test fails,(with return line pinched) then the pump is NO GOOD. (wrong pump , bad, or its sock clogged, or hose inside near it is cracked and leaking inside tank unseen.
that covers them all i think.
10.I will check fuel pressure out and do the shunt test and see what kind of pressure I get. Thanks again for the help. Will report back later.