Could really use some help

[fixkick]

virtual signature 1992 8v. G16a, located, door count? trans type, and 2w/4wd??????
was the test at the filter BANJO, 6mm screw test port, I need to know this, a detail very important to causes.

OK, lot of info to get through here.

Before we delve into the hack wire issue I want to throw out that i checked fuel pressure last night as well. cycled key a few times made it to about 15 PSI. started and let idle for few minutes and it made it up to about 20PSI if you would give it some throttle the PSI drops a little when it revs, down to maybe 18PSI and then back up. seemed to hold pressure fairly well with key off. So i know fuel pressure is low and i have order a pump (WHY):? and plan on getting that swapped hopefully this weekend. (Auto parts stores charge about 5x of what can find thing on the internet, Ridiculous)
yes, pumps come in JUNK ($10 at fleebay) and the good ones are all listed on rockauto, by name see those famous names, bingo, x10



that is NO GOOD. so car has 2 problems, all very normal on old cars, for sure.
the spec, is clear, its 34 to 41psi. covered in post 4, and is WRONG, cant ignore dead wrong pressures. sure,,, but you never told me your ALTITUDE.?????
btw key on pressure , max. (due to FPR actions)
here is the factory manual, on that, verbatum
http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/PUMP/8v...ess95w.jpg

do not order pumps please, there are 2 simple tests first. Why take a bath in fuel 2 times.>>????
no pump works with a bad FPR, so we do what ?, (on the FPR PAGE) we, pinch off the return line on FPR (its the only line there)
if pressure goes to 50 to 60lbs, the FPR IS DEAD. See this on my pump page, called the SHUT test and repeats again on my FPR page.
if pressure fails, now. the pump is bad, but WAIT
rule 3, the pump only works with 12vdc to it. so if you measure 6v at pump or near (2 wires) then we know the voltage must be 12v (10 to 12 cranking , 14v running, (amps are 4 amps)
yes pumps can be 1/2 shorted, and suck 10 amps, and voltage drops. we check voltage always, and current, if the voltage is low and current at spec, the wires are bad, like all sidekicks to and for sure 2door kicks.
the 2 door has the bad ground on everyone, now, left rear tail light pit as seen in my pump test page, and the pink wire connector is away rusty (TODAY) and more down stream to tank same sad story.
rule 1 filter not packed. pressure will huge if using the BANJO PORT. but not after the filter. see?



Now onto hack wire....
FAILURE 2:

I cut the solid black between the igniter and the TPS/FI connector. and this is when i was not getting any fuel. I did not check to see if i was still spark but know for sure that without the hack wire we got ZERO fuel through injector when cranking.
there are 5 ways to get no fuel, even with 34psi fuel pressure, min.

The wire splices in at the igniter plug on the black wire and then also Y's in at the TPS connector into the red wire.
OK I guessed this, so the hacker hotwire the injector red wire, now that is a fact.
So that red wire continues to go both directions at TPS Conn. The yellow wire that also goes to injector and through that connector is hooked up and going through that connector, appears not to have any hacks done on it. i just had everything pulled off to side for that picture. You can actually see the yellow wire in among the other wires to the right. (but can not be seen going into the connector in the photo making me not know anything useful.)

you do know right that hacking the EFI is all wrong, and doomed, right?
Once we get on this same page, then we can cure that.
in a real shop, (say lucky first try)
the tech did this.
the story of your car, in the hands of a pro
car runs bad, (engine power , all wrong)
finds fuel pressure ok (pretend)
then DTC are 12s, ECU says IM happy
all sensors are good, compression ok, vacuum not bouncing, and CAT not melted (DO YOU HAVE ONE? ) be nice to know that.
he then checks the MAP its ok. shows, 1.2v at idle.
he then scopes the injector wires for the 3mS pulses, (3/1000th of a second, )
he fails to see this, but only 12vdc, the injector wires show its hack.
http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/INJ-red-gnd-1w.jpg


he sees no pulse, and sees 12vdc steady line, its HACKED
possibles
1: the wire to the ECU RED is bad. fixes that and bingo it pulses
2: ECU is bad. gets rebuild.
2b: reads my ECU page sees Q101 is easy fix and fixes, it.