for sure you are on track , all tests are very revealing.
you must use the timing freeze jumper. i see you did. good. but that jumper only works near 800 rpm ,hot and TPS idle switch closed.
the ECU uses timing advance, to fast tune idle speed. (then ISC slow but more control ) this fast idle servo , is defeated in timing freeze .
if not you, will just get a bouncing timing mark with strobe light..
also the damper pulley on the car LOVES to de-laminate that rubber bond slips. the cure is new damper , or short term do a TDC recalibrate on the pulley using TDC tool.
used dizzy's , rotor planted wrong, 1 of 3 is good. other 2 are, dead spark and weak yellow spark. ( this error puts the CMP hall sensor star wheel out of time with rotor, causes spark between , cap posts. and horrific results)
used dizzy's, some one took off the gear in end and put it on 180deg out., this makes out of time gear, causes, the rotor to land wrong.
1530 only means , timing freeze jumper forgot to remove it...
it will run, but timing must be good.
the dizzy timing is easier to see on the old 8v TBI engine
seen here clearly , the 16v this harder to see, causally.
crank shaft key good>, crank-pulley not stripped out >then cam timed right, then dizzy gear right>, then rotor right,> and last timed with a strobe.
the tabs in the hall wheel, must be at the correct location, and the rotor to land on the right cap location. This wheel tells ECU where TDC is.
![[Image: 16v-naked.jpg]](http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/16-real-marks/16v-naked.jpg)
the dizzy can be timed at any cap tower , point, but 1pm is normal for the harness to fit right.
this is because the ECU dont know what hall tab you are using, to fire TDC. the dizzy (fitted right) is perfectly symmetrical. (rotor and gear planted right)
if the gear is wrong on end of dizzy, you will find the slot in the adjustment base has too little range... a very frustrating , event.
16v , normal location
http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/16-rea...zy1c1w.jpg
you must use the timing freeze jumper. i see you did. good. but that jumper only works near 800 rpm ,hot and TPS idle switch closed.
the ECU uses timing advance, to fast tune idle speed. (then ISC slow but more control ) this fast idle servo , is defeated in timing freeze .
if not you, will just get a bouncing timing mark with strobe light..
also the damper pulley on the car LOVES to de-laminate that rubber bond slips. the cure is new damper , or short term do a TDC recalibrate on the pulley using TDC tool.
used dizzy's , rotor planted wrong, 1 of 3 is good. other 2 are, dead spark and weak yellow spark. ( this error puts the CMP hall sensor star wheel out of time with rotor, causes spark between , cap posts. and horrific results)
used dizzy's, some one took off the gear in end and put it on 180deg out., this makes out of time gear, causes, the rotor to land wrong.
1530 only means , timing freeze jumper forgot to remove it...
it will run, but timing must be good.
the dizzy timing is easier to see on the old 8v TBI engine
seen here clearly , the 16v this harder to see, causally.
crank shaft key good>, crank-pulley not stripped out >then cam timed right, then dizzy gear right>, then rotor right,> and last timed with a strobe.
the tabs in the hall wheel, must be at the correct location, and the rotor to land on the right cap location. This wheel tells ECU where TDC is.
the dizzy can be timed at any cap tower , point, but 1pm is normal for the harness to fit right.
this is because the ECU dont know what hall tab you are using, to fire TDC. the dizzy (fitted right) is perfectly symmetrical. (rotor and gear planted right)
if the gear is wrong on end of dizzy, you will find the slot in the adjustment base has too little range... a very frustrating , event.
16v , normal location
http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/16-rea...zy1c1w.jpg
http://www.fixkick.com