Login Register

Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
Is it worth keeping?
#11
the throttle on a hot engine is blocked near 100% this is why it cant pump air, and thus the rule.
the isc can NOT supply the air,

do it warm, or hot.
do it wide open throttle each step is on my compression page. 1/2 open throttle wroks just block it open at the TB, 0 throttle wastes the whole effort.
do it all sparks out
do it battery charged.
add oil to do more.

each time the piston goes down it must get a full slug of air, it only gets 1 time to do that. (and peak the gauge) crank and watch it peak, and done.
it must not pull a vacuum. or the test is wrong.

that full slug of air , gets compressed by CR value, say 9:1. this is what makes full compression, my vw does 100. my lawn mower does 50. but this high CR engien does almost 2 times my vw.


i bet its ok as 170PSI , IIRC, is low spec, so???? 16v..... (its a factor of CR compression ratio, and no bad valves and rings) and altitude, in Denver is less in fact. 0.83 times

160 is not too good, but???

my 16s
both did (500ft altitude)
My 97 pulls 185 PSI min. dead cold. (a new head) later and hot it does 195 PSI. Old 100k mile engine, now with new oil rings, new crank and new head.
so 185 cold, is good.


the cylinders are no round cold thus warm or hot test. to get a bench mark.


in Denver my 195 would be,,161 psi, (a huge difference, they lack air up there) use my tables on compression page

http://www.fixkick.com/compressiontest.html
http://www.fixkick.com
Reply
#12
Ok, I went back and did it over, Got it hot, Had to use gloves to handle the plugs, WOT, put a new O-ring on HF tester, 170, 158, 170, 165 max difference is down to 12. Recheck with oil 196, 190, 198, 192 - I think it's safe to assume valves are ok. TB is probably not slipped but I'm going to change it anyway due to high mileage. Rings are probably the problem. The idle issue is probably the dead IAC. Also found a bad hose between the EGR Modulator and Main EGR valve. Thing was swollen to twice its normal size and not even connected on one end. I'm also guessing all these things taken as a whole equal the poor fuel economy.
Timing belt came in today so when the WP gets here (ordered from Suzuki, just don't trust Chinese parts after my new ball joint on truck lasted less than a year) I'll get it done and let you know how it comes out.

I really appreciate you all helping out.

Dennis
Reply
#13
RINGS WEAK.
That hose will suck air. at light cruise an may cause lean. odd effects.
illegal air, (unmetered) can cause lean, (the 02 holds stoich) but when you move the throttle that extra air can cause lean points.'
each little battle , wins the war.
good luck.
http://www.fixkick.com
Reply
#14
I've decided to keep it and fix everything reasonably practical.
So repairs are progressing.
Timing belt was not slipped and in not bad shape for 110,000 miles.
Bad news I DO have the exhaust manifold crack in #4, I need a new one anyway because I rounded the oxygen sensor trying to get it out.
I've never seen one this tight, I used special tool, heat. PB blaster, no luck so out comes the manifold. Now I just have to find one. (long one)
Crank and cam seals are NOT leaking, so I'm debating changing them.
The crank pulley is properly torqued and OK.
Used IAC came in and works properly. I'll set duty cycle when I get it all running again.

Found MORE disconnected vacuum lines and a bad EVAP solenoid.
Water pump shaft has quite a bit of play although, oddly, not leaking, I'm changing it anyway with a proper Suzuki pump due to it's location (I'd rather pay$40 extra to not have to replace it in a year)

I didn't check ignition timing bc I'm pulling distributor anyway to change O-ring, I'll time after.

I suppose that while the top is off to change manifold I'll go ahead and do valve lash.

Any suggestions while I have the top and front off?

Dennis
Reply
#15
yes, i bet that O2 is original, and fused .
id leave seals that dont leak on car, they are lots of work to change, but of its all taken apart, crank pulley and cam, there is a gates belt kit hat has all 4 parts, belt./idler/2 seals. Rockauto.com
nice find a working IAC< they are very hard to find, used.
nice car.....
http://www.fixkick.com
Reply
#16
Got it done! Idles correctly, EVAP is working, IAC works. New Gates timing belt kit and water pump are done. New O2 sensor installed on the junkyard manifold that is less cracked than mine was($35). EGR had a bad hose and two others not connected. Timing was 5 degrees and is now 8. Valves adjusted. Dist O-rings replaced. Seems to be running better but we'll see how gas mileage does. At least now it doesn't die when I stop.

Thanks!

Dennis
Reply
#17
what a great project, you are ready to roll.
good luck to you !
http://www.fixkick.com
Reply


Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 3 Guest(s)