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97 Sidekick Sport 1.8L - CUTS OUT AT 1/4 THROTTLE
#41
(01-26-2017, 12:18 PM)fetcher Wrote: MtTrails, if your fuel pressure turns out to be stable, you can try this test that costs nothing and takes no tools and very little effort. When you first start the car, before it warms up and the idle drops, check if the car cuts out when you press
the throttle.

Nope, it starts easily and revs right off idle without stalling.
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#42
(01-26-2017, 10:30 PM)fixkick Wrote: op, does car idle at 800 rpm hot.??????
in neutral park and drive. too, it must.
does it. all the time? even at red lights, stop signs foot on brake in Drive.?
it must, and that is the idle controls they are hard coded in the ECU for that (A/C off for sure)

did you gap those plugs,(NGK does not gap them for you, they fit many cars not just yours, is why)
Spark gap , .028 to 0.031 inches. 18 ft/lbs torque ! no more.

that is the spec, the hood sticker told you that as does the SM.
do not listen to plug makers that forgot to read the SM , some make this horrible error, seen it,
some think the G16. J18 and J20 engines are same, and is a gross lie.
btw the scan tool shows RPM too. dead accurate tool. speck is 750 to 850 rpm hot. hot means 180f, (near)
Yes, I purchased another new set of Autolite plugs today Jan 28 and gapped them at 32/1000"
I installed a new TPS today and set the voltage to .5V - 3.8V
Yes, idles at 800 RPM Hot
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#43
FOUND SOMETHING SUSPICIOUS TODAY
I was looking for loose hoses and wires today and I noticed the cable from the throttle pulley that goes down to the transmission is very loose / slacked. The only time the slack comes out is when I open the throttle Wide Open. I assume this is the kick down cable going to the transmission. Shouldn't this cable have a little spring tension on it? Could this be causing that Throttle Sensitive cut out problem? Here's a photo I took of the loose cable. And yes, that is a smashed thumb nail ready to fall off ... LOL

[Image: IMG_2616.jpg]free screen capture software

[Image: IMG_2614.jpg]screen shot
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#44
tranny TV cable that is bad'

bad cable,rusted inside and seized
or
the a/t TV valve is jammed.
so easy.....

this causes way late shifting, the other name of cable, is passing gear, or detent cable.
it drops pressure inside trans on main, control line.

i presume this is the 4speed
with P/n switch and o/d switch near shifter.
http://www.fixkick.com
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#45
it wont cause engine power loss. opposite, really do to being in lower gears longer.
did sit un-driven for long time.?
(falls on ass syndrome)
no engine power, top things (tuned up with filters) All DTCs stored, is key help reset them see what cames back, driven. if can.
loss of fuel pressure, way below 30psi. FPR tests too.
MAF dead. (or just super weak but not so weak DTC's happen , DTC happen only DEAD (stuck high,stuck 0v)
Cat melted, (renders engine useless, can breath, see my cat tests? (type cat test in my search box, fixkick.com)
misfire DTC codes, are very important, keep a log of all seen.... for sure p0300 (random). (and lean codes P0171)
injectors clean>?
http://www.fixkick.com
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#46
Duane btw trusts his ground clip to always win the war of electric shock
some newer cars can hit, 100,000 volts run open circuit.
same as a STUN GUN.
even this I never touch
here is a 1928 FORD spark coil, still working after 89 long years
tar coil, hardwood case,. dove-tailed.

http://www.jeepdied.com/scope%20views/vi...mp4_2.html

about 30kv? shocking no?
http://www.fixkick.com
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#47
recap
does WOT always work,, no answer yet, at the CUT.?
compression ok
spark ok. #1 (front cyl) other unk.
injector (unknown)? (SWAP 1 TO2)
fuel pressure at spec. unk.
pressure washer killed it. why? (cuz that is what they all do)
FILTERS 20 YEAR OLD.
cop boots 2,3,4, old. (I do them in sets, if ones bad they are are or near,, just like car brake pads, all or none,per axle)
no live scans at CUT
no pendings gander at CUT , live.
http://www.fixkick.com
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#48
Yes, it has the OD switch on the shifter. Is there a possibility this could be causing the miss fire? It does seem to shift ok.
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#49
(01-29-2017, 09:26 PM)fixkick Wrote: . I washed the engine with a pressure washer, and after that is when I noticed it start missing.

well that is super easy, you filled the spark wells with water
this always happens doing that.
or worse. pressure washers can also do great damage, not driven after and baking it totally dry.
that pressure can push past critical seals on engine parts, heck all parts.
It's been 9 months since I washed the engine. Also, I have installed new spark plugs and new COP on #1 since then.
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#50
Most of the time yes, sometimes no. In other words, any decrease or increase USUALLY makes it come out of it, but not every time. But it always does CUT OUT at 1/4 throttle setting while driving. I cannot get it to cut out unless I'm driving. I have tried to get it to cut out while sitting in the shop, but it does not. I can hear it mis fire on 1 cylinder sometimes when it is idling, but not all the time.
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